Hai Van pass road curving around a headland above the sea, clay model

The Hai Van Pass: 496 metres, and why bikes still go over it

Short answer

The Hai Van Pass is a 21 km climb to 496 metres on National Route 1 between Hue and Da Nang, and it marks the boundary between the climates of northern and southern Vietnam. The 6,280 m Hai Van Tunnel opened on 5 June 2005 and took the traffic, but motorcycles are not allowed through it.

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The facts

Figure
Length About 21 km
Summit 496 m
Peak alongside Ai Van Son, 1,172 m
Road National Route 1, between Hue and Da Nang
Tunnel Hai Van Tunnel, 6,280 m, opened 5 June 2005, second tube 2021
Tunnel rule Motorcycles, bicycles and pedestrians not allowed, shuttle since November 2006
Historic border Dai Viet and Champa, 1306 to 1471

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A weather line you can stand on

The pass forms the boundary between the climates of northern and southern Vietnam. It shelters Da Nang from northwesterly winds, and in winter the north side can be wet and cold while the south side is warm and dry at the same hour of the same day.

That is not a figure of speech. Riding south in January you can leave Hue in drizzle and grey, climb for half an hour and come out of the cloud into sun over the bay. Riding north, you watch it happen in reverse, which is the better direction for understanding what the ridge is doing.

The summit is 496 metres, and the road covers about 21 kilometres getting there and down. Ai Van Son, the peak beside it, reaches 1,172 metres, and that is the shape your eye reads, which is why the pass feels higher than its own number.

What the tunnel changed

The 6,280 metre Hai Van Tunnel opened on 5 June 2005, with a second tube completed in 2021, and it took National Route 1’s through traffic under the ridge. Lorries and coaches that used to grind over the top now go straight through.

Two tunnel portals below a forested ridge, with lorries at a toll plaza and an empty hairpin road above
The traffic goes under. The road over the top is what is left.

So the pass road is quiet in a way it was not before, and the people on it largely chose to be. That is the whole reason it reads as a scenic route today rather than as a bottleneck.

One rule decides a lot of trips: motorcycles, bicycles and pedestrians are not allowed in the tunnel. A shuttle service for bikes started in November 2006. If you are riding, the pass is not the scenic option, it is the only option.

A border before it was a view

From 1306 until Vietnamese forces took the region in 1471, this ridge divided the kingdoms of Dai Viet and Champa. A natural weather boundary that is also a defensible crossing tends to collect fortifications, and the structures on the top are the residue of that.

Seven centuries on one ridge

  1. 1306

    The ridge becomes a frontier

    It divided the kingdoms of Dai Viet and Champa.

  2. 1471

    Vietnamese forces take the region

    A border for 165 years ends here.

  3. 5 June 2005

    The Hai Van Tunnel opens

    6,280 metres, and National Route 1 traffic leaves the top.

  4. November 2006

    A shuttle for bikes begins

    Motorcycles, bicycles and pedestrians are not allowed in the tunnel.

  5. 2021

    A second tube is completed

Source: Wikipedia, Hai Van Pass and Hai Van Tunnel.

Doing it

On two wheels you go over, by the rule above. In a car or a coach you can ask for the pass rather than the tunnel, and the train takes the coastal line around the headland instead, which is a different view and covered in the Reunification Express.

Either end is a reason to stop: Hue on the north side with the citadel and the tombs, the beaches on the south. Which half of the year suits is in when to go to Vietnam, the licence rule for riding yourself is in is Vietnam safe, and for the maps and weather you will actually check up there, sizing is in how much mobile data for Vietnam with the plans in the Vietnam eSIM store.

Questions

How high and how long is it?

About 21 kilometres of road climbing to 496 metres, on National Route 1 between Hue and Da Nang. The peak beside it, Ai Van Son, reaches 1,172 metres, which is why the pass looks far higher than its own figure suggests when you are standing on it.

Why is the road so quiet now?

Because the through traffic goes underneath. The 6,280 metre Hai Van Tunnel opened on 5 June 2005 and a second tube was completed in 2021, so cars, buses and trucks take the tunnel. What is left on the pass is mostly people who came for the pass.

Can I ride a motorbike through the tunnel?

No. Motorcycles, bicycles and pedestrians are not allowed in the tunnel, and a shuttle service for bikes began in November 2006. If you are on two wheels, the pass is your road, which is a large part of why the route is so closely associated with riding.

Why does the weather change at the top?

The pass forms a boundary between the climates of northern and southern Vietnam and shelters Da Nang from northwesterly winds. In winter the north side can be wet and cold while the south side is warm and dry, so you can ride out of one season into another in half an hour.

What was it historically?

A frontier. It divided the kingdoms of Dai Viet and Champa from 1306 until Vietnamese forces took the region in 1471. Standing on a weather boundary that was also a political one for 165 years explains most of what is built on it.

Sources

  1. Wikipedia: Hải Vân Pass
  2. Wikipedia: Hải Vân Tunnel
  3. Vietnam Railways: official ticketing
  4. Wikipedia: Climate of Vietnam